Battle of the Wine Merchants 2023
The annual “Battle of the Wine Merchants” is one of the most eagerly anticipated events the Chaîne calendar. Leading local wine merchants are pitted against each other to pair wines with three courses without tasting the dishes in advance. If this was not challenging enough, the judging for best pairing lies with the discerning Chaîne members and guests who attend. The identity of the wines and who has provided them is unknown until after all the tasting has been completed.
This year’s competitors were Goslings (the reigning champions) represented by Ryliegh McGhee and Mark Harrington; Pitt & Co/Tasting Room represented by John Lake and NeilMountford; and Discovery/Burrows represented by Simon Carruthers.
Bolero hosted the event as it has done since its inception. Marian Fundurianu, Manager, and his expert team seamlessly served all guests throughout the evening. Applying his exceptional creativity, Chef Jonny Roberts, prepared a thrilling and enigmatic menu to defy our wine merchants.
Goslings kicked off the evening by complementing the anchovypiquancy of the Gentlemen’s Relish on Toast with Pere Ventura Tresor Gran Reserva Brut Cava 2017, made in the champagne style with rich brioche notes tempered with a slight bite of salinity, the ideal precursor to the tastings to follow.
First to the pass was Chef Jonny’s “Surf N Turf - ginger steak hache, tiger shrimp, salted egg sauce”. With the scant description, the wine merchants had little to guide them in their wine selections. Judging which wine paired best with this course proved equally challenging especially with the array of succulent flavours on the plate. The wine merchantsunanimously chose French white wines, but from different regions. Goslings elected for a buttery, complex chardonnayfrom a village in the Côte de Beaune sub-region of Burgundy, Olivier Leflaive Chassagne-Montrachet Houilleres 2018; whilst Pitt & Co/Tasting Room opted for a Riesling from Alsace, Trimbach Cuvee Frederic Emile Riesling 2011, with intense minerality and powerful acidity. However, with the focus being on which wine paired best with the food, it was Discovery/Burrows that prevailed in this round with its choice of a white Crozes-Hermitage (usually associated with red wines), M. Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Blanc 2020, described as “tropical and balanced.”
Round 2: “Raw Tuna – black potato “risotto”, yellow chutney.” Yet again the descriptor proved deceptive, however all the elements on the dish came together superbly and it was packed full of flavour. Diners were faced with a tough choice between three varied, but equally delectable wines. Pitt & Co/Tasting Room spoilt guests with an indulgent French champagne, 80% pinot noir and 20% chardonnay, Andre Jacquart Rose de SaigneeN/V, undeniably one to savour, yet not necessarily meeting the evening’s brief. Goslings provided a Chateau Minuty 281 Rose 2021 mindful that the Grenache and Syrah would add strength and structure to the wine and stand up to the meatiness of the tuna, while the integrated soft aromas of white flowers, peach and rosemary would add an extra element to the other flavourson the plate. However, it was Discovery/Burrows’s choice of Elk Cove Pinot Blanc 2021, a white from a producer more generally known for their red wines, which was judged to make the best pairing for this round. Tasting notes for this wine by the Oregon winemaker: “pear, tangerine and ginger on the nose lead to a juicy, rounded palate of honeydew melon, green apple, Cara Cara orange and a river rock freshness”.
Chef Jonny continued to challenge the wine merchants with his Round 3 course, “Duck Thigh & Morcilla – celeriac soubise, gherkin ketchup.” Intriguingly, the duck and morcilla weremasterfully combined to create a mouth-watering taste sensation enhanced by winning accompaniments. Again, it was a struggle to judge which wine paired best when faced with a choice of three diverse reds. Discovery/Burrows opted for a French pinot noir, Remoissenet Meursault Rouge 2019, produced in an area which is more widely famed for its white wines. Pitt & Co/Tasting Room presented an Italian Barolo, 100% Nebbiolo, Michele Chiarlo Cannubi Barolo 2018. As fantastic as these wines were, they were pipped at the post by Goslings’ choice of a Spanish Rioja, 78% Tempranillo & 22% Grenache, La Rioja Alta Vina Ardanza Reserva 2015, aged, rich, earthy and savourywith full integrated tannins with balsamic and thyme notes. The acidity of the Rioja stood up to the fatty duck while the rich tannins helped soften the taste of the morcilla.
While the cumulative votes for the rounds were being counted, guests were further indulged with Chef Jonny’s final dish:“Fried milk, chili ice-cream”. Such an unassuming descriptor for what turned out to be a delicious and surprisingly refreshing last plate beautifully paired with a lush and balanced German dessert wine, Nik Weis Bockstein Spatlese 2018, provided by Goslings.
It was a close call. Guests reaped the benefits of the wine merchants going all out with incredible selections of wine much enjoyed by all. However, ultimately Discovery/Burrows triumphed with choices which, like the dishes created by Chef Jonny, defied convention.